center spacer measurement = 15 inches total
What is an Embroidery Machine Riser?
An embroidery machine riser does two things: 1) the riser raises the height of the embroidery machine for easier threading, and 2) the riser turns a flatbed embroidery machine into a free arm embroidery machine.
A flatbed embroidery machine requires round items (like shirts, pants, and bags) to be turned inside out to hoop and embroider these items. The shirt (bag, etc.) is then embroidered with the item going over the top of the embroidery machine. Stitching items this way can make it difficult to see if the embroidery design skips stitches or has other stitch out problems.
A free arm embroidery machine allows shirts, bags, and other large round items to have the hoop visible while stitching. The shirt or bag is hooped normally, with the item hanging below the embroidery machine’s throat.
The size of the embroidery machine determines the dimensions of the embroidery machine riser. Machines that use larger hoops will have a larger embroidery arm width and length. The wider the embroidery arm, the larger the shirt or bag has to be to clear the embroidery arm and fit around the riser.
It isn’t hard to make your own embroidery machine riser, if you are comfortable using a circular saw, drill, sander, and screwdriver. The lumber store can cut the lumber to the correct dimensions, if you don’t have a saw.
Making an Embroidery Machine Riser
The embroidery machine riser consists of three main parts. The top board, the bottom board, and the middle spacer pieces. Drawers and storage spaces can be added to the right side of the riser.
To determine the size of the riser to fit your machine, you simply measure the base of your embroidery machine. The length of the riser should be a couple inches longer than the bottom of the embroidery machine. The width of the riser should be a couple inches wider than the base of the embroidery machine. Shelving boards (1″ x 12″ or 1″ x 10″) can be used to make the embroidery machine riser.
The middle spacers can be either a 1″ x 3″ board or a 1″ x 4″ board. The 1″ x 4″ board will give you more space under the machine, allowing the shirt or bag to move easier as the embroidery hoop moves during stitching.
The middle spacer section is a box with four sides. One end of the box can be tapered (as seen in the riser photos). The taper is not required, but it is there to extend the spacer’s length in order to support more of the top board.
Riser Dimensions
A 5″ x 7″ maximum hoop embroidery machine (examples: Brother PE800 or Brother SE1900) will use a riser measuring 24″ long, 8″ wide, and 5″ tall.
A 6″ x 10″ maximum hoop embroidery machine (examples: Brother NQ1600e, Brother NQ1700e, Baby Lock Flourish, Baby Lock Flourish 2, or Baby Lock Flare) will use a riser measuring 30″ long, 11″ wide, and 5″ tall.
Measurements can be adjusted to be slightly smaller, if desired. The top of the riser should be at least 1″ longer in length and in width than the embroidery machine.
Materials
- one shelf board to fit your machine’s width (Usually a 1″ x 10″ or a 1″ x 12″ board that is at least 6 feet long. The board should not have any knots or sap. Hardwood is better, when possible.)
- one 1″ x 4″ board that is at least 6 feet long.
- screws (drywall, deck, or wood screws approximately 1.5″ long)
- drill with small drill bit and screw bits
- sander with fine grit sanding paper
- wood glue
Instructions
To make your embroidery machine riser, cut the two wider (shelving) boards slightly larger than the base of your machine. These will be the top and bottom of your riser.
Cut two spacer boards (the 1″ x 4″ board) half the length of the top board measurement. Then cut two more spacer boards the width of the top board measurement minus 1.5″. You should have four boards total cut from the 1″ x 4″ board.
If you choose to have angled spacer boards, then measure 3″ down the board from one end of a longer spacer board. Draw a line from the corner of the board to the mark. This is your cut line. Repeat for the other long spacer board.
When screwing boards together, you will want to align the boards to be joined and then predrill the screw holes through both boards. The drill bit should be smaller than the screw size. Before screwing any boards together, you will want to apply wood glue to the edged of the spacer board prior to screwing the spacer boards to any other boards.
Place the spacer boards together, forming a square. Screw the boards together. If you choose to have an angled end, the longer side should touch the top board with the angled end near the center of the top board. One angled spacer board at the front long edge of the top board and one angled spacer board near the back long edge of the top board.
Next, screw and glue the top board to the spacer section. The right side of the top board will align with the spacer board’s right side. The angled ends will be near the middle of the long side of the top board. (See picture above.)
Then screw and glue the bottom board to the spacer section. The right side of the bottom board will align with the spacer board’s right side.
With the sander, smooth all sides and edges. When finished, the edges of the riser will be rounded and smooth.
You can seal your riser with a nice polyurethane or leave it bare.
How to Use the Riser
First, check to see if the garment or bag will fit around the embroidery arm and the riser.
Next, hoop the garment or bag.
When placing the hoop on the machine, the garment or bag will slide underneath the top board of the riser.